Surviving the Overmountain Victory Trail

Three weeks ago I was deathly ill after suffering from a bite of some sort, most likely from a brown recluse, so when I decided to tackle the Overmountain Victory Trail I had no idea that neither remnants of that illness nor the copperhead on the trail would be the least of my worries.

The Overmountain Victory Trail is a 330 mile trail that starts in Abingdon, VA and traverses through Tennessee, North Carolina and South Carolina before winding back into North Carolina where it ends at Kings Mountain. It marks the route taken by American patriots in 1780 who traveled from Abingdon on horseback in the dead of winter to fight, and win, the Battle of Kings Mountain. One portion of it runs near Tryon, NC where a vineyard is named over it.

For the most part, IT IS NOT a hiking a trail, but rather a path made up of roads and unmarked trails through private land, however there is a small section that can be hiked.  

I've written previously about hiking the Appalachian Trail through Roan Highlands which is one of my favorite places, containing large balds, stunning views and boreal forests due to the high elevation.

To reach the Overmountain Victory Trail, park at Carver's Gap near the top of Roan Mountain. Travel northbound on the AT about five miles at which point you will find that the Overmountain Victory Trail crosses the AT (at Yellow Mountain Gap). From there, turning left onto the OVT will take you through a long descent of single track for about a mile and a half, before it then opens up to a double track that runs through a number of horse and cow pastures.

At times the trail is poorly marked and very much overgrown. Many of the signs have been knocked down. Just keep in mind that you need to stay close to the sound of the river and you'll be okay. Once you reach mile 3.5 or so (which would be 8.5 miles from Carver's Gap) you'll walk past a few homes, the first of which is clearly deserted (despite the fact that someone was boiling something in an old fifty-five gallon drum in the front yard). You'll then come to a paved road. This is the Hampton Creek Cove Recreation Area and it contains a small parking area. It also contains some locals who will eyeball you suspiciously from inside their trailers. 

At that point you have a couple of options. Turn around and hike back, or continue walking the OVT, which is now completely unmarked and follows a series of paved, and poorly marked, roads.  You could also start your hike from here if you don't mind walking up hill for three and a half miles. 

Camping is allowed on the trail but the forested area of the trail is very much overgrown and it would be difficult to pitch a tent. The pastured areas are also largely overgrown with black berry bushes and make for a less than ideal campsite but would work in a pinch.

What my two companions and I ended up doing was continuing to walk down the road a couple of miles to Hwy. 143 where we hitched a ride to the Roan Mountain State Park campground and spent the night there. While there we learned from the forest ranger that the locals are not fond of hikers and that the area is a den of methamphetamine production. That might explain the enormous number of viscous dogs along the path.



However should you decide to follow in our footsteps, here are the directions: From the Hampton Creek Cove Recreation area, turn right onto Hampton Creek Road. (It's not marked but it's the only road you'll see at that point.) Walk about a mile and you'll come to a crossroads. The road to the right is called Teaberry Road but isn't marked. On our map it said that it was  called Teaberry on both sides but to the left it's actually marked (sort of) with a sign that says "Dark Hollow Road." Both Dark Hollow Road and Teaberry Road have rather interesting ghost stories attached to them. There is a large unmarked grave off of Teaberry where supposedly a witch was buried and now haunts the site.  So don't go that way. Instead turn left on Dark Hollow where you will pass a cemetery that is also supposedly haunted by a woman who was murdered by the local wives who thought she was sleeping with all their husbands.  We didn't catch a glimpse of her though.

Follow that road until you get to another crossroads. If you go straight, you'll be on Sugar Hollow Road. If you turn right you'll be on Sugar Hollow Road. Yes you read that correctly. Go right, on Sugar Hollow, not straight on Sugar Hollow. Sugar Hollow to the right will take you to Hwy 143 and you'll see an RV park on your left. Unfortunately, as we discovered, they won't let backpackers stay there. So from there, turn left onto 143 and walk about a mile and a half to the state park campground located on the right side of the road.

For one more option to the trailhead, see the comment from Brenda W. below.

Despite the reputation of the area, we actually had nothing but pleasant interactions with people. A kid on an ATV stopped to give us directions. A guy on a tractor gave us even better directions. A guy on a riding lawn mower stopped mowing to try and help but actually gave us bad directions. A lady sitting on her porch offered us water. A guy on a homemade motorcycle with no brakes stopped as well. He had to use his feet to stop. He also gave us bad directions but not intentionally. Then a nice guy gave us a ride the last mile and a half and even gave us some ears of corn from his garden. Once we made it to the state park, a ranger gave me a lift back to my car and refused to let me pay him for his time and another camper gave us hamburgers for dinner. It was a hell of an adventure. Wish I had time to write about all the other things we saw, like the thousand or so centipedes that invaded our campsite the first night.

Distance from downtown Greenville: 126 miles

Appalachian Trail Journals

Overmountain Shelter

If you like quirky stories and tall tales, then you probably enjoy, as I do, reading the kind of travel journals you might find at a Bed and Breakfast or in a room at a nice inn. Without a doubt though, the most interesting ones I've found are the trail journals I've found located in Appalachian Trail shelters.  If you find yourself at one, I highly recommend taking the time to read it.  A couple I came across recently had the following entries.

• One from a guy claiming he had a two hour staring contest with a deer.

• Another claiming a bear had just entered the campsite.

• One by a guy claiming he was in a hurry because the "anti-sin" crew was on his heels trying to save him from eternal damnation.

• The next one was from a group that simply wrote, "damn sinners!"

• Another was from a group from the north. The writer spoke over and over about how many spiders and insects there were in the shelter. I thought that was funny. Yep, in the South there are bugs in the wilderness, and in the cities, and in our homes.  That's just the way it is.

• Another from a guy claiming that he and his pals had encountered a mountain lion in a pine tree that had bitten one of his friends. 

• Another entry was from an Amish family who claimed they had so much trouble finding fresh water that they had resorted to drinking their own urine. 

Double Springs Shelter

There were lots of other interesting ones, most of them describing their encounters with wildlife and commenting on the peacefulness of the trail. Some regarding the weather and lots of advice on which springs were dry and which were not. There were several quoting Bible verses and just as many extolling the virtues of bonfires and liquor.

Silers Bald Shelter

Stan Murray Shelter

Virginia Creeper Trail

The Virginia Creeper Trail is a rails to trails project located in southwest Virigina. It starts near the top of Virginia's second highest peak, Whitetop Mountain, and runs thirty-four miles to downtown Abingdon. Originally a steam engine called the Virginia Creeper ran through the area. The rail was abandoned in 1974 and construction of the trail began in 1977.

The trail is open to hikers and equestrians but primarily used by mountain bikers. There are several bike rental companies nearby which will shuttle visitors to Whitetop. From there they can ride all the way to the end or stop in Damascus, the halfway point. Damascus is also the lowest point on the trail, so starting at either end is a downhill trek for the first half of the trail. As you can see by the white blaze on the bridge, part of the trail converges with the Appalachian Trail temporarily. They then separate before meeting again in Damascus. Damascus is known as the friendliest town on the Appalachian Trail and is the location of an annual festival known as Trail Days.

One of the first stops on the trail is this old train depot called Green Cove. The depot has been transformed into a gift shop. A famous photograph of the spot called, Maud Bows To The Virginia Creeper can be seen here.



After about five miles the trail begins to follow the Holston River, a favorite spot of trout fisherman.

There are also plenty of campsites along the way.

Distance from downtown Greenville: 170 miles.

Location of bike rental shop and end of trail.

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Trailfest 2009 - April 25th & 26th

I've never made it this event, but it sounds like a good time. Trailfest is located in the quirky town of Hot Springs, NC. Both the Appalachian Trail and the French Broad River run through the middle of the town.

The festival features music, food, games, a chili cook off and some sort of duck race.

Distance from downtown Greenville: 96 miles.


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Charles Bunion

Charles Bunion is a large rock offering a magnificent view of the Smoky Mountains. It is accessible via the Appalachian Trail. The quickest route to Charlie is from Hwy 441 at Newfound Gap in the Great Smoky Mountain National Park. It's a five mile hike one way.



If you enjoy this blog, you might enjoy Ron Rash's latest novel Serena. The story is a fascinating drama that takes place in many of the places mentioned here.









Distance from downtown Greenville: 123 miles.

Map to trailhead at Newfound Gap.

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Shenandoah National Park

Shenandoah National Park is primarily accessible via the Skyline Drive, which is sort of like the Blue Ridge Parkway except there is a fee to access it. If you want to see wildlife, this is the place to see it. The deer are so friendly they sit within a few feet of the trails. The bear are also abundant but a bit more shy..fortunately. If you want a good meal and a good beer check out Big Meadows Lodge or Skyland Resort.

Distance from downtown Greenville: 400 miles




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Clingman's Dome

Clingman's Dome is the second highest peak east of the Mississippi (next to Mt. Mitchell) and the highest peak in Tennessee. Located in the Great Smoky Mountain National Park, you can drive within a half mile of the lookout tower at the summit, although that half mile is a doozy. If you would like a little more scenery and solitude on the way up, the Appalachian Trail runs just below the lookout. (I started at Indian Gap, six miles north on the AT, and found it to be a beautiful section.) This is also the beginning of North Carolina's Mountain's to Sea trail. There are a couple of shelters within 2-4 miles available for camping although, one of them (Mt. Collins shelter) is currently closed due to "aggressive bear activity."

On the way out of the park I was fortunate enough to see two elk, a rare sighting in this part of the country.


Distance from downtown Greenville: 129


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Roan Mountain

Roan Mountain is a treasure trove of wildlife and mountain flora. The summit of Roan sits at almost 6300 feet so even in the middle of summer the days are cool and crisp. The elevation also means that you'll experience a boreal forest of spruce, cedar and fir.

Roan is also known for it's rhododendron, which typically bloom in June. A series of very easy trails at the summit will allow you to explore the rhodos. Another trail will take you to Roan High Bluff, which offers a lookout (that on windy days can blow you right off the mountain).

The Appalachian Trail also runs across the summit of Roan then continues over several balds.









The images to the left include, Round Bald, Jane's Bald, Little Hump Mountain and Hump Mountain. A state park with camping, cabins, and a pool is located at a lower elevation. For more images and further descriptions of the Roan Mountain area, please check out Mark Peacock's Blog.

Distance from downtown Greenville: 125 miles.


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Mt. Rogers

Mt. Rogers is the highest point in Virginia at 5,729 feet. There are several routes to the summit. Although there is no view from the top, the trails that meander through open meadows and boreal forests make it well worth the journey. No camping is allowed on the summit but there are plenty of great campsites nearby.

Two benchmarks mark the summit.

Regardless of which trail you take, ultimately you end up on one of the nicest sections of the Appalachian Trail. This sections runs through Grayson Highlands, home to wild ponies.



Distance from downtown Greenville: 213 miles


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Big Bald

Big Bald is located on the Tennessee-North Carolina border. It's accessible only by hiking from Sam's Gap or Spivey Gap, via the Appalachian Trail. Either direction will require a 14-16 mile round trip hike (mostly uphill on the way in), but boy oh boy is it worth it. Obviously on a clear day you'll have a better view. These images were taken from the summit the second day of spring 2008. As its name implies it's a bald mountain similar to Black Balsam, Max Patch, Tennent Mountain, Sam Knob, and the Roan Mountain peaks.

There are plenty of places for camping along the way, and a water source near the summit. There is also a shelter just north of the summit.

Distance from downtown Greenville:89 Miles to trailhead.


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Sassafras Mountain

Despite the fact that Sassafras Mountain is the highest peak in South Carolina, it gets very little attention. Once you’ve seen it, you’ll know why. The summit is astonishingly unremarkable. A power cable runs across the top, and a dumpster and propane tank are all that greets visitors.

So why did I bother? Well I’ve been reading a book called A Walk Atop America by Douglas Butler, a North Carolina resident. Dr. Butler spent several years reaching the highpoints of all fifty states. This particular hobby is known as highpointing. There is supposed to be a highpointing register at each summit, but I found the register missing from Sassafrass. On the metal register container someone had scratched, “Needs new register September 2001.”

At a 3560’elevation Sassafras is not much to brag about, especially considering that Tennessee’s and North Carolina’s high points are almost twice the elevation - those being Clingman’s Dome (6643) and Mt. Mitchell (6684). Even though it’s possible to drive to the summit, I suggest you hike to it, via the Foothills Trail. The shortest route is to start from Chimney Rock Gap, located here. This is a 5 mile round trip. The trail is nice and will give you a nice walk in the woods, but it’s not spectacular. If you’d like a truly outstanding trail, start at Table Rock State Park located here. Take the Pinnacle trail to the beginning of the Foothills trail and follow it to Sassafrass. This will likely take two days though. It will also take you past SC's second highest peak, Pinnacle Mountain, which is nothing special either but the trail to it makes it worth the trip.

In the meantime, I highly recommend Dr. Butler’s book. His writing is informative but conversational in tone as he describes his adventures reaching the fifty state highpoints. That’s quite an accomplishment considering that several of them are above 12,000 feet.

(Incidentally, Clingman’s Dome and Mt. Mitchell were originally named after two rivals. Mt. Mitchell was originally called Clingman’s Peak and a nearby peak was called Mt. Mitchell. Later it was determined that Mt. Mitchell was higher than Clingman’s Peak so they reversed the names, paying homage to Elias Mitchell who first made the mountain famous. Thomas Clingman actually discovered the highest peak but he was such a jerk about it, that the public chose to honor Mitchell anyway, later naming Tennessee’s highest peak after Clingman. Clingman’s Dome is located in Smokey Mountain National Park. The Mountains to Sea Trail starts there and the Appalachian Trail runs crosses the mountain as well. Clingman’s Peak can be seen on the left while driving up to Mt. Mitchell. The Mountains to Sea trail passes through Mt. Mitchell and Clingman’s Peak as well. You read more about the history of these mountains in another great book called Mt. Mitchell and the Black Mountains by Timothy Silver.)

Distance from downtown Greenville: 42 miles

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Nantahala Outdoor Center

The Nantahala Outdoor Center is located where the Appalachian Trail crosses the Nantahala river. (There are also several branch locations.) They offer many adventure trips, most of them centered around paddling on the areas best rivers.

They also have an outfitters shop, a couple restaurants and a general store which not only sells the best local microbrew in the area but offers a decent wine selection as well. Lodging is also available.



Distance from downtown Greenville: 129 miles


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Max Patch

Max Patch is a bald mountain located on the NC/TN border offering 360 degree panoramas. It can be reached through a variety of trails or you can simply drive to it via NC road 148. (Take exit 7 from I40.) It also offers plenty of good camping spots.

The Appalachian Trail runs across the top of Max Patch.

Click image to see larger view of 360 Pan of Max Patch.

Here are two of the hiking options:
From Brown Gap via the AT
To Lemon Gap

There's a nice loop that can be hiked from Brown Gap via the Cherry Creek Trail. Pick up a copy of Appalachian Trail maps #3 & #4 or National Geographic Topo map #782 to find other options.

Distance from downtown Greenville: 105 Miles

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